TA 152 from RSKits part II
Construction is moving along very well. The photo on the left shows the wing tip block and trailing
edge glued in place. I use Pica Gluitt for all wood to foam joints because it sands out easily
edge glued in place. I use Pica Gluitt for all wood to foam joints because it sands out easily
The completed aileron torque rod glued into place. The torque rods are installed before the wing
panels are joined. One thing to know in advance is that the wing TE taper in thickness requiring
that you sand out the aileron to matching shape. Time consumming but not difficult to to.
panels are joined. One thing to know in advance is that the wing TE taper in thickness requiring
that you sand out the aileron to matching shape. Time consumming but not difficult to to.
Prior to joining the wing panels the kit supplied balsa center rib is glued to one one panel.
Once dry it was sanded to the match the airfoil shape of the wing
Once dry it was sanded to the match the airfoil shape of the wing
This photo shows the left panel after the bevel has been sanded into it for correct dihedral. I
placed the panel on the edge of my workbench and block sanded it shape with the wing tip
elevated to the correct dihedral setting. In this way the edge of the bench creates a fence or
stop for the sanding block. Once the panel have been joined the supplied fiberglass cloth is put
over the center section joint. I thinned 30 minute epoxy with alcohol to allow it to be brushed
without dragging the cloth.
placed the panel on the edge of my workbench and block sanded it shape with the wing tip
elevated to the correct dihedral setting. In this way the edge of the bench creates a fence or
stop for the sanding block. Once the panel have been joined the supplied fiberglass cloth is put
over the center section joint. I thinned 30 minute epoxy with alcohol to allow it to be brushed
without dragging the cloth.
Here is the finished wing, with aileron and the tail feathers. They are sanded out and ready for
covering. I am brushing three heavy coats of nitrate dope on all parts then covering with damp
silkspan. The silkspan will get another heavy coat of dope then color will be sprayed.
covering. I am brushing three heavy coats of nitrate dope on all parts then covering with damp
silkspan. The silkspan will get another heavy coat of dope then color will be sprayed.
With the wing and tail done it is time to move onto the fuselage. The stab cutout has been made
and now the plywood wing holdown plate is glued into the fuse. Once dry relief channels will be
cut for the torque rods and holes drilled for the rear holdown nylon bolts.
The view into the front shows the small hole drilled for the LE dowel. The second photo shows
the aluminum tube that has been glued in place to recieve the dowel. Once the glue for the tube
had set the wing was placed into the fuse saddle and a hole was drilled into it by using the tube
as the guide. Easy to do with excellent alignment.
and now the plywood wing holdown plate is glued into the fuse. Once dry relief channels will be
cut for the torque rods and holes drilled for the rear holdown nylon bolts.
The view into the front shows the small hole drilled for the LE dowel. The second photo shows
the aluminum tube that has been glued in place to recieve the dowel. Once the glue for the tube
had set the wing was placed into the fuse saddle and a hole was drilled into it by using the tube
as the guide. Easy to do with excellent alignment.
Now we are getting to the fun parts. The firewall has been drilled for the motor mounts and blind
nuts installed. It has been glued into the fuse after cleaning the glass sides with laquer thinner.
The glue used was Elmers Pro-Bond. Once the firewall was set in place the cowl was fitted to
the engine. The distance from firewall to back of prop needed to be 3-3/8" which means any
standard 2025 mount will work. I mounted the Norvel and used paper templates to locate the
head and muffler openings then cut them out with a dremel. You can see the results on the left.
nuts installed. It has been glued into the fuse after cleaning the glass sides with laquer thinner.
The glue used was Elmers Pro-Bond. Once the firewall was set in place the cowl was fitted to
the engine. The distance from firewall to back of prop needed to be 3-3/8" which means any
standard 2025 mount will work. I mounted the Norvel and used paper templates to locate the
head and muffler openings then cut them out with a dremel. You can see the results on the left.
