| Building an Electric WWII Fighter from Scratch, added 3/18/2005 |
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| Today there are many ARFs available and nowhere is this more apparent than in electric flying models. There are many good models available that only require that you install radio equipment and then go fly. Many new modelers and even some with experience prefer to buy and fly ARFs to building their own models. It is certainly faster to buy a pre-built model and much easier than designing from scratch or building from a kit. Yet there are compelling reasons to build from scratch such as the desire to have a unique aircraft, or maybe an ARF that is sized correctly is not available, and for some the desire to design and create is a large part of the enjoyment of the hobby. What follows are the methods I use to design and build an electric combat fighter scratch. The methods I use are by no means unique and you may vary them to suit your skills and desires. |
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| Part 1 - Tools to Scratch Build Part 2 - Selecting a Subject and Laying out the design Part 3 - Cutting Parts Part 4 - Assembly |
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| Tools to make scratch building easier: Cutting tools - the #11 X-acto blade and knife may be the most versatile tool in any modelers workshop. It is important to have sharp blades at all times for your knife. A dull blade is hard to cut with, and it will tear softer balsa and foam if you try to cut it with a dull blade. You can purchase #11 X-acto blades in any Office Depot or Staples store in 100 count packs for between $15-$20, which is certainly cheaper than buying them in a plastic tube five at a time. Also single edge razor blades are available in 100 count packs at most hardware stores. Although not as versatile as X-acto blades and harder to work they are useful in cutting covering materials. Measuring tools - at a mininum you should have a good steel straightedge and if you can find one with a cork backing to keep it from sliding on the work surface get that type. We have an assortment of straight edges for measuring, marking and making straight cuts. If your budget will allow get at least a 12" and 36" metal rule. 18" and 6" rules also come in handy. Although not a necessity having an adjustable "square" makes building and marking a lot easier. Ours was bought many years ago in the carpetnry section of a local hardware store. Grinding and Cutting tools: Next to the X-Acto knife and rulers the next most used tools in our workshop are the Dremel tools. They are used for cutting, routing, grinding, and sanding. A good Dremel is a lifetime investment that will pay for itself many times over. Besides cutting wire, and grinding down wood our Dremels are fitted with router attachments to allow them to be used to "pocket" areas of foam for servo, battery and receiver installations. Electric Saws - there are two electric saws we will use on this project. The first is a scroll saw which was a Christmas present 37 years ago. It certainly has held up well to all the use we have put it too. It is used to cut ply parts and cut the "inside" area of parts. The second saw is a Delta 8" bandsaw with a fine cutting blade installed. It is used to cut the 2" thick foam sheets that are used for the fuselage. Foam Cutting System - is used to cut the wing cores and also used to make long straight cuts in the foam sheets to make fuselage and wing blanks. The foam cutting system we use is the Tekoa Feather Cut which is a commercially available system but a little pricey. The bow, power supply and weight driven cutting system is about $300 complete but has been used for five years now to cut literally hundreds of wings. In any event you will need a least a foam bow and power supply to drive it to cut wing cores. An alternative is to purchase wings from a commercial foam cutter. Other tools you will need: soldering irons, hand drill and a nice to have is a belt sander. Glues we use: for foam gluing we use five minute or thirty minute epoxy, clear silicon, Elmer's Ultimate polyurethane, and occasionally foam safe (odorless) CA. For gluing wood we use epoxy, CA and if the joint has to be sanded a white glue with a high solid content like PICA Glu-It. |
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| Click here for Part II, Laying out the Design |
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